THE BASS COLLEGE

TIPS FOR USING SOFT PLASTICS

The variety of soft plastic baits for bass is mind boggling. The choices available just in worms alone, are enough to cause confusion with the novice angler, and hours of debate among the more experienced.

What size? color?, straight tail? curly tail?, salt or no salt?; what rig to use them on, drop-shot? Carolina rigged?, weightless?, when are the best times to use each one? Then add in the endless variety of lizards, grubs, jerkbaits, freakbaits, tubes, and creatures, and you end up with more questions than answers.

In the following article I will try to list the most effective plastic baits and presentations that catch not only numbers, but big bass as well, whether it is in a lake, pond or river, just about anywhere in the country. There will always be a new type of bait that one person or the other claims is better than the others, but the following baits and techniques will cover most any situation that you are likely to encounter.

Plastic Worms

The original artificial worm manufactured by Nick Creme, in 1949, was a standard straight tailed worm, but it spawned generations of worm companies and hundreds of soft plastic lure designs that are the mainstay of modern bass fishing.

Straight tailed worms are just that--straight, with no bends or kinks in the middle, no curly tails, paddle tails, no air pockets, no flotation, nothing special at all, just a worm. Regardless of their plain appearance, many times straight tailed worms are much more effective than other fancier styles. This was proven to us first hand one day in a New York tournament. The bass absolutely refused to hit any other style of worm except a 6 inch straight tail in black, with a tiny bit of blue fleck in it. If you didn't have that particular style of worm, you were out of the money that day. Straight tailed worms are often at their best when bass are suspicious of anything out of the ordinary, such as in highly pressured tournament lakes. Many times in these situations the bass are put off by a curly tail waving in the current. But the opposite can be true for the same fish, in the same lake, when they are on their beds during the spawn. Many times, the movement of a curly tail will cause the extra enticement you need to catch them. Plastic worms aren't at their best in cold water, but then nothing is. When the water is cold, bass will feed only occasionally, and whether it is spring, fall, or winter, the slow, slightly twitchy retrieve with a straight tail worm will work wonders. But the key to this is working the worm slowly, only twitching it occasionally, allowing the worm to stay in the strike zone as long as possible, where the sluggish bass will notice, and possibly hit it.

These worms also work well for bedding bass, but don't hesitate to put on a small curly tail worm if the bass won't pick up the straight tail. The fact that most straight tail worms are not floating models can be an advantage. While floating worms have a lot to offer in terms of waving around just off the bottom, bass are in the habit of searching and feeding off the bottom. Eels, worms, crayfish, nymphs, frogs, and other prey are often found there. Smallmouth in particular make a habit of routing in the rocks and gravel to find a meal. Plastic worms, rigged weedless, and worked slowly across the bottom, look more like natural prey trying to hide and escape than something floating off the bottom and waving around.

To accomplish this, the standard Texas rig with a bullet weight is best. The Texas rig keeps the worm from getting hung up, and the weight gets the worm to the bottom and keeps it there. The Carolina rig is another option for the straight tail worm. This type of rig allows for a deeper, slower, even retrieve. The straight tail worm, and even retrieve, make this rig resemble an eel, although in smaller sizes, the bass may see it as a slim baitfish, or even a large dragonfly nymph.

We found that these straight tail worms are excellent for fishing in the river. We cast them across the current, using a high rod technique, to minimize drag and allow the worm to drift with the current. Often a little twitch will provoke a strike, but the twitch should be subtle, just enough to move the worm a little bit. We also cast the worm straight upstream, which works very well in the rivers since they require less weight to sink naturally and can be fished dead with the current to resemble a dead or dying shad or other baitfish. Both Texas and exposed hook riggings work, but the Texas seems to be the best if there are any snags or it is a rough, rocky bottom. Wacky rigging this type of worm is another option as well that has taken huge bass when othet techniques fail. Tackle is important when fishing straight tail worms, since much of the fishing depends on slow techniques. I like to use a real sensitive rod, such as a G. Loomis, with the reel spooled with a sensitive line, such as Stren Sensor, or any other sensitive line. Using an outfit like this makes it easier to detect strikes, but you should always maintain contact with the worm, even when Deadsticking it. I like to use a small weight to accomplish this. Cross-stream casts in the current will usually maintain some tension, but upstream casts require a retrieve as fast as the current to keep slack out of the line and make sure that you detect all the strikes.

Straight tail worms are also great for deep jigging. The jigging action makes the worm seem alive without a curly tail waving around in the water. Again, the key here is sensitive tackle, as the bass will often hit the worm on the fall. Straight tail worms are serious bass takers. If a bass follows another type of worm but doesn't take it, then try a straight stick of a worm. They may not look like much, but can take serious limits of bass when they are off their normal feed.

Worms/Floating Worms, & Critters

First, almost all plastic worms float. Usually, just adding any hook to the worm is enough to sink it. This allows a variety of bottom presentations, but they are not that great for working on the surface as a topwater. True floating worms have air blown into the PVC mix to create enough flotation to keep them on the surface. Many times over thicker cover these worms shine. When the bass are active, and would be hitting a buzzbait, or other topwater bait, but the cover doesn't allow it, these floating and curly tail worms, can be fished right on the surface, and worked quickly over thicker vegetation like a buzzbait. This has drawn some tremendous strikes throughout lakes and rivers all over the country. Most of these floating worms will float with a hook up to about a 3/0. Some of the more popular companies that manufacture these worms are Riverside, Bass Pro Shops, Culprit, Bass Assassin, Creme and others. Carolina Fish and Fur offer some great hand made floating worms. Most of the companies also make other floating baits, such as Mann's, who calls them Floating Creatures, and they come in frog and lizard shapes.

Air pocket worms have a bunch of pockets of air, such as the Riverside Air Worm, and others have single large pockets, like on the Culprit Burst worms. Bass Pro Shops sold some worms a few years back that we had a lot of luck with, that were called Caterpillar worms. They have a prickly or spiny exterior that holds air bubbles. Most of these worms not only take numbers of bass, but also take big bass. We have been in many tournaments where the big bass was taken on a small worm or creature bait. These floating baits also work well when rigged to work over deeper structure such as brushpiles or weedbeds. A lot of these worms are designed to hold different scents also. Some are designed to have the scents injected right inside of the worm. All floating worms vary in their flotation ability with various hooks, so some experimentation is necessary to produce the desired results. One problem with floating worms is that they look no different than standard worms. Keep your floaters in a separate bag or box in the original bag to keep them from getting mixed up with the regular worms.

The "critter" baits such as the soft plastic crayfish, lizards, frogs, and hellgrammites, also catch a lot of big bass. The craw type baits often have air pockets not only in the main body, but in the claws as well. Claws with air pockets float up off the bottom, putting it in a defensive posture that triggers strikes from bass that are fooled into believing it is a real crayfish. Experiment with different rigs, scents, and rattles in these baits until you find the most productive in that particular area. The floating worms and critters don't replace the old standbys, but they add another dimension to your fishing.

Tube Baits

There are as many different tube baits as there are worms, and more and more variations arrive each year. Some of the best tube baits we have used for catching bedding bass, and bass that are holding in tight to cover, are listed below.

Ringed Tubes

Many bait manufacturers have incorporated rings into their tube designs. Rings add bulk, trap air bubbles, and feel soft and lifelike to the bass. They allow for better hookups by reducing the amount of plastic that the hook has to penetrate. The first tube we ever bought that had this feature was a 4 1/2 inch tube made by Larew. These baits are made with an injection-mold, rather than a dip process, which is what you need to do to make a ringed bait. A lot of manufactures are now adding a skirt to the ringed tube, which gives it even more bulk and a slower fall. The pulsating motion of the skirt and tail seem to come alive when rigged Texas or Carolina style, or used a jig trailer.

Solid Head

The first solid head tube was introduced right after Denny Brauer won the classic. It is made by Strike King, but now there are many more manufacturers. This was a great innovation, since it gave standard worm hooks enough plastic in which to gain a firm hold. The main problem with finesse tubes is that the thin noses won't stay put on worm hooks.

After these tubes came out, many other new innovations followed, such as longer and fatter tubes. Now there are many tubes in the 4 1/2 and 5 inch sizes. There are even bigger tubes than that, they are Saltwater tubes, which we have used successfully in the California Delta for BIG bass. Oversized tubes also are easier for bass to find in cover or muddy water.

Tube Critters

The 5 inch Sala Tube from Mister Twister, features a solid head and a body shaped like a salamander. This bait also has eyes. This is part of the Exude line of baits, which contains a water soluble scent that gives the plastic a slimy feel when wet. These baits work very well on bedding bass in lakes all over the country. Because it has a lizard type shape it produces a stronger reaction from bedding bass than a regular tube does. We like to use this tube in heavy cover also, on 20-25 pound test line. When we fish real nasty cover, we use it on a jig with braided line.

Another type of tube is the tube craw. This bait mimics a crawfish well, and can be worked in all types of cover. Another craw type tube bait is the Yum Craw Bug. The tail of this bait is curled under like a crawfish on the move. We always use this tube when fishing for bass that have received a lot of pressure. It seems to get strikes from heavily pressured bass that you wouldn't normally get. We usually rig this bait on a 3/0 or 4/0 Gamakatsu hook, with a 3/16 ounce bullet sinker, and 14-20 pound test mono. They make a small 2 inch craw now also, which we use for drop-shotting. I like to use the Craw tube in muddy water, because it is more buoyant than regular tubes and moves more water. Rattles can also be added to this tube to increase it's effectiveness in muddy or stained water. There is also a tube now called a Fork Craw, which I like to use when fishing grass. It is thinner and slides through vegetation more easily and presents a smaller profile which is great for clearer water.

Another new type of tube is the Double-tail tube, which has two curled tails that appear as wings. Luck "E" Strike also makes a new tube called a "Ring Daddy." It was designed by Rick Clunn who believes the rings give off a hydrodynamic signal that appeals to bass. I have used this bait effectively when pitching and flipping. When we need to skip a tube under docks, we like to use Strike King's new baits called the Tube Craw, Wild Thang and Tube lizard. They have smooth bodies which make them ideal skipping baits. I use them on a 4/0 hook with a 5/16 ounce bullet weight. The Wild is a great bait for after the spawn, and it catches huge bass. It is 5 inches long, has a hollow body, and a shredded tail. I always use this bait when I believe the bass are looking upward. I like it in the summer months, and I have fished it with a swimming motion very successfully. The tube lizard is a great bait for the spawn, through the post spawn period.

Soft Jerkbaits

Soft Jerkbaits like the Zoom Super Fluke are great substitutes for a hard Jerkbaits when the grass is too thick to use a hard bait with treble hooks. This bait was the best producer for the top ten finishers in the finals at Lake Gaston. We had tried many other baits that day, but the Fluke was the winner, hands down.

There are a variety of different rigging techniques for soft plastic Jerkbaits, but I want the maximum action I can get with this bait, so I use a really large offset hook made by Eagle Claw. This hook is bigger than what most anglers use for the Fluke, but the bigger hook not only adds casting weight, but it shifts the weight to the rear of the bait and causes an exaggerated "walk-the-dog" action on the retrieve. It's a great bait for bass in weed pockets, or in deeper, thinner grass like the situation we ran into on Lake Gaston. This bait definitely gave you an advantage that day. I use a light/dark pattern with these baits, but occasionally go to colors like watermelon and green pumpkin, in the clearer water sometimes. I use this bait a lot in place of a surface bait like a rat, and if a bass blows up on it and misses, which happens a lot in heavy scum and grass, then I just maneuver the bait to the hole created by the bass and let it sink. Most of the time the bass will still be there and take the Fluke on the drop, something I can't do with the rat.

All of these baits and more can be very effective for big bass at times. At night I use a 10-12 inch worm by Yamamoto for some huge bass. But none of these baits will work for the beginner or intermediate angler unless you are fishing in the right spot. Some of the best advice I can give is: Fish slowly, when you think you're fishing slowly, slow down some more. Fish some of the smaller lakes and rivers. With emphasis on tournaments, many anglers forget about the great fishing in some of the smaller lakes and rivers that you can't fish in a bass boat.

Don't make your fishing too complicated. Use a few basic baits to start, then expand after you have learned how to use those starter baits. Find the right depth; You can't catch fish if you fish above them or below them. Learn how to use the electronics on your boat properly.

Fish as often as you can, nothing can replace the knowledge you get from being on the water a lot. The first few years I started fishing, we spent at least 8 hours a day, 3 or 4 days a week fishing. Get out on the water as much as you can, nothing replaces hands on experience.

You can get many of these baits shown for free along with any order from the TACKLE STORE at the top of the site here.

When all else fails and the fishing can't get any HARDER  show bass your SOFTER side!

Texas Rig

Probably the most common method of rigging a plastic bait and the most familiar to fishermen is the Texas Rig. It is a quick and simple technique to fish one of the most productive bass lures; the plastic worm. In the original Texas Rig, the worm is rigged on the hook with the point of the hook pinned back into the body of the worm to make it weedless and a bullet weight is used on the line ahead of the hook. In recent years the term Texas Rig has come to mean the weedless method of putting the bait on the hook whether a weight is used or not. Thus, many anglers talk about Texas Rigging a Senko or other soft plastic stick baits, or Texas Rigging their drop shot bait on an offset hook to enable them to fish the drop shot around wood and other hook-snagging cover.

Every angler you talk to will have some variation of the basic Texas Rig and the description given here is certainly not the final word on this versatile technique. Everyone has their own favorite hook; straight shank, offset shank, round bend, O'Shaugnessy bend, Kahle bend, extra wide gap, and on and on. Which ever hook you prefer, the final product should offer the point of the hook stuck back into the body of the worm and the worm itself having a straight profile when laid on a flat surface or suspended in the water. If the worm has a big hump or bulge where the point is inserted or 'bunches up' on the front of the hook, it will not look like a natural presentation to a bass. If this happens, it will probably lessen the number of bites you'll get and will also increase line twist since the worm will tend to spin when retrieved. Neither of these are good scenarios. These days the preferred hook by most anglers is an offset shank, O'Shaugnessy bend, wide gap round bend, or extra wide gap hook. The common feature is the offset shank.

The selection of the size of the hook should be determined by the size of the worm; the bigger the worm, the bigger the hook. Often the plastic bait being used is not a plastic worm but something thicker like a Brush Hog or other large creature bait, a Senko, Fat Ika, or other flip bait that is thick and heavy and requires a very large hook. The other criteria when selecting the hook is the weight of the line used. Heavy lines require heavy wire hooks since light wire hooks will straighten out before the line snaps, taking away the advantage of the strong line. Tackle Warehouse offers the two best hooks on the market today; Gamakatsu and Owner. Both of these manufacturers offer different gauges of wire in several models of hooks to accommodate the weight of the line used, even up to the super braid lines like Spider Wire and Power Pro. To determine the size hook that will be appropriate for each type of bait place the bait flat along the shank of the hook and see how much space there is between the back of the bait and the point of the hook. If it doesn't look like there is enough gap, use a bigger hook or go to an extra wide gap style. If the hook seems to overpower the bait you're using, downsize.

To start the Texas Rig, determine whether or not you will be using a weight, the type of weight, if you will peg the weight, and if you will be using a glass bead for more sound on the rig. First, insert the point of the hook into the front, or 'nose, of the worm. If you will be using a sliding weight and a glass bead, such as the Top Brass Brass n' Glass, push the point in only about 1/8 inch and circle it down and out the 'belly' of the bait (the flat side on a hand-poured worm) and slide the worm up the shank of the hook and onto the offset portion. If you will be pegging the weight or using no weight, push the point further into the nose of the worm before exiting the belly. Hold the worm against the point of the hook to measure where the point will exit and just slightly further down the belly of the bait push the point in, angling toward the nose. If you've measured right the point will just exit the back of the bait without stretching the worm or creating a bend in the worm between the point and the eye. There are a variety of methods for making sure the point is not exposed. One method is to slide the point back into the worm and push it forward inside the worm just under the 'skin'. When the fish bites and you set the hook it should be easy for the point to exit and 'stick' the fish's mouth. Another method is to push the point into the belly of the bait further down the body than in the previous example, slide the hook out and leave the barb and about 3/8 inch of the hook exposed and just insert the point under the skin of the worm. When done correctly the worm will be straight on the hook and just the point will be in the skin with a slight bulge where it inserts. Again, when you get bit the hook will break out easily and you will get a solid hookset.

Different Weights

When fishing the Texas Rig in muddy or stained water, adding sound can be a real advantage and the Brass n' Glass weight system can really help. Thread the brass bullet weight on the line followed by a glass bead, then tie on the appropriate hook. The color of the weight, bead, and bait should be reasonably close. Check out the Top Brass company's Brass n' Glass weights on the website. These are precision cut brass weights and fire hardened glass beads that have been designed for this style of fishing and are manufactured so the edges of the beads and weights will not harm your line or cut the knot that secures your hook. They are also color coordinated so you will just need to buy one package that will contain everything you need. Brass is much harder than lead and creates a sharper clack when struck together and more volume. We also offer glass rattles that can be pushed into the body of the bait for added sound, and glass beads separately to add to the weights you may already have. Do not peg the weight so that both pieces can slide up and down the line. Make sure the eye of the hook is just exposed from the nose of the worm to give a hard place for the rig to strike against instead of the soft nose of the worm which will just dampen any sound produced.

If you are just using a bullet weight without a bead make sure you slide the point of the hook far enough into the nose of the bait that the knot and eye of the hook are NOT exposed. The end of the weight that is against the nose of the bait is concave and the bait should nestle nicely into this pocket and make a smooth transition from weight to worm, giving the appearance of one continuous, natural-looking piece. If you are flipping with this rig in heavy cover it may be a good idea to peg the weight or often as the bait falls the weight will end up on one side of a branch and the bait on the other side and the rig will not reach the bottom. Be sure to check out Top Brass' Peg-It system on the website.

A variation of this rig that ensures the weight stays with the bait and does not separate, is the screw in Gambler Florida Rig weights we offer. These weights also come in a rattling version so you can have the rattling effect of the Brass n' Glass without the possible disadvantage of hanging your lure on two sides of a branch. When using the Florida weights be sure to allow a generous amount of the nose of the bait above the eye of the hook so you can screw the weight all the way down into the plastic and so there is a little give when you set the hook. In other words, the bait should be able to slide down the eye of the hook for a short distance so the other end can slide down off the point. If there is too much tension and the bait can't slide back, you may not get a solid hookset and miss some important bites.

Tungsten weights have become popular in recent years and offer the noise advantages of brass with the added advantage of increased density which decreases the size of the weight. These weights seem to have better 'contact' with the bottom and even more precise castability. Tungsten weights are about half the size of the same lead weight so heavier weights can be used to fish deeper, in windier conditions, and to penetrate heavy cover without making your worm rig look like a big weight that you added a tail to. Tackle Warehouse offers Lake Fork Mega Weights and Kanji Bullet Weights made from Tungsten.

Fishing the Texas Rig

When you're rigged-up and ready to fish the Texas Rig, look for a bank with fish-holding cover and cast beyond any likely looking spots. Let the rig settle to the bottom and slide, shake, or drag the worm, lizard, or other bait through the area back to the boat or shore. Make sure you keep contact with the bottom, but vary your retrieve including occasionally lifting the rod tip up to about 12:00, which will make the worm come off the bottom and glide several feet before dropping back down. Pretty soon you will discover what the fish want that particular day and you can start boating some poundage. If you are fishing the Brass n' Glass be sure to work the rig with plenty of shaking and minimum forward motion to allow the noise makers plenty of movement for maximum noise. A good rule of thumb is to tune your retrieve speed to the temperature, the cooler the water the slower the retrieve. However, even during the summer the fish may prefer a slow retrieve. Keep experimenting and you'll find what they want.

Many people flip with Texas Rigged plastic baits like the Roboworm Zipper, Zoom Brush Hog and other creature baits, big tubes like the money winning Dominator Boom-Boom Tubes by Reaction Innovations, and even Senkos and other soft stick baits. (see our description on flipping) Most anglers Texas Rig their plastic baits when Carolina-rigging to keep them weedless. (See the Carolina-rig section). You can make your drop shot rig weedless by using a small offset hook and following the basic pattern for rigging weedless found on this page. (see our section on drop shot.)

All the tackle we discuss is available to you at major discounts with free shipping on most orders, Just click here for more info.<<

Tips by Steve and Kurt. (BassmanKVB).

Most baits here in the articles and tips are on sale now and you can view them or order by just clicking on any of the photos of the baits.

Finally caught my first & second bass with a texas rig. 

Delaware and Maryland Ponds, Lakes, and Rivers are receiving more and more pressure as each year goes by, not just from weekend anglers, but tournament fishing as well. If you apply some new tactics with these spider grubs, you can be more productive in your recreational and tournament fishing alike.

Surprisingly, this deadly soft plastic bait is not a staple in everyone's tackle box, but in many other states, it is a long time favorite lure when the going gets tough. Several companies make spider grubs, but I prefer the ones made by "Gary Yamamoto Custom Baits" the best. The grubs come in a variety of colors and sizes, from two to five inches long. They are absolutely deadly on spring largemouth and smallmouth bass alike. Most anglers like to use them on jig heads, and this is an extremely effective method, but I also like to rig them Texas style. The grub resembles a darting crawfish depending on how you fish it. It is the most effective in clear water, but also produces bass in stained and muddy water.The lure is compact like a jig and pig, as versatile as a worm, can be fished vertically or horizontally, fast or slow. You can pitch it, flip it, swim it, hop it, or drag it on the bottom. Here are some of the ways I like to fish it in Delaware and Maryland waters, and elsewhere throughout the country, that really produce bass.

Search Tool

When searching for bass, you want to try to cover the water quickly. The spider grub is a great search tool when you're looking for bass that are feeding on crawfish around scattered weeds and rocks on shallow flats like the Susquehanna, or similar shallow areas. You can fish it faster than a jig, cover the water quickly, and trigger more reaction strikes, The earth tone colors are easy to match with the forage and blend in well with the surroundings. This is critical in clear water, when the bass rely more on sight. Sometimes I like to fish it fast, with an erratic, jerkbait type motion. The lure is always moving, but on or near the bottom.

When I fish the open flats with scattered grass, I rig it on a light jighead, or if the cover is thicker, I rig it Texas style. I found that I land more fish If the hook is exposed, and if it becomes hooked on weeds occasionally, I jerk it free, sometimes causing a reaction strike. I like to use 1/8 ounce or 1/4 ounce jigheads, depending on the depth of the water, wind, currents, or how hard it is to keep on the bottom. I also prefer to fish them on a 6 1/2 to 7 foot spinning rod with a medium action soft tip, in graphite. Using six to eight pound test P-Line.

Sometimes you can go to ten pound line, depending on the cover. The light line gives the bait more action, and is less likely to hang up in the weeds. I have used these successfully on the grass flats in the Potomac River and on the Susquehanna flats. Working it the right way takes some practice. You want the lure to scoot along in short bursts, on or near the bottom, without making excessive hops. Don't pull it too hard, or you will lose contact with the bottom. Keep the rod low to the water, and on the side of the boat so the wind doesn't bow the line and ruin the action of the bait.

Keep contact with the bait at all times, because many of the strikes will feel mushy or heavy like it is on grass, but most of the time when I set the hook, it is a bass. If it is just weeds, it pulls free and sometimes triggers a strike.

Different Techniques

Swimming the Grub

Sometimes I swim the grub like a jerk bait. Once in a tournament the bass were ignoring the jerkbait, so I switched to the spider grub, and fished it erratically over the weeds, stopping it occasionally. This triggered the strikes that I needed to win. Fifteen pounds of bass slammed the spider grub while ignoring the other jerkbaits and crankbaits that were being worked in the same area.

Dragging the Grub

Sometimes when I am fishing on a long, sandy, gravel point, I use a stand up jighead and just pull it slowly on the bottom. I work it very slow, and maintain contact with the bottom all the time. Also, I Carolina-Rig the bait, and when I feel it hit rocks or heavy cover, I start shaking the line, and this causes strikes to occur much of the time. This has been working real well in lakes in Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, but I have used it with success all over the country.

Suspended Fish

Frequently after a cold-front moves through, bass will suspend over some structure. When this occurs, You can rig it Texas style, on a very light weight, or with no weight at all, and let it float down to the bottom. When conditions are tough, this works wonders at times by keeping the bait in front of the fish longer. I have even tried drop-shotting this bait with success. They are more prone to strike the bait with this method, over a bait that moves quickly by them. When you are searching for fish, and the going gets tough, this is the bait to try. I like to use a good spinning rod, such as G.Loomis or St.Croix, and a good reel like a Shimano or Daiwa. Sensitivity is very important, and a combination such as this improves your chances of catching them when they strike. This technique has worked well in clear lakes all over the Midwest, and in Pennsylvania, Delaware, and New Jersey. I caught a lot of nice bass using these methods at Table Rock Lake, in Missouri also. Whether it is spring, summer, fall, or winter, this is a bait for all seasons.

Fall Is coming up right around the corner. If you are not throwing tubes you are missing out on serious fish especially in the rivers.

good tips

Thanks and welcome to the site.

Alot of good info there.

Thanks 

Wow, this is one of the best soft plastics write-ups I've ever seen! My first bass I ever caught was on a texas-rigged stick-worm and I'll never forget it. Steve, I really don't understand how anyone disagrees with you, because before I saw this site, I already agreed with about everything you do and we live 17 hours apart! 

LOL To each his own I guess. lol Some people are jealous and do things to purposely undermine things I say, not so much on here, but on other public places. lol Most are competitors and old business rivals from the 80's and 90's who never got anywhere and are pissed. lol But some people just have different opinions, and thats cool, just don't try to argue with me on my own site . ROTFL  Disagree?? Sure, Express another opinion, sure, but show blatent disrespect or argue?? NO WAY!! lol  Thanks again,  talk to you soon.

thats good info

Hi Steve..your site is one of the best...love your videos on YOUTUBE as well..keep up the great work.....Candlewood..smallmouth Mecca....only in CT..

AD from Connecticut

Thanks man appreciate it.

GRANDEBASS RATTLESNAKE BY BASS COLLEGE PRO STAFF TOM INMON

I enjoyed the video Tom, Thanks !